Sunday, December 25, 2005

Copper Canyon - Divisadero, MX

So you take the train from Los Mochis, to see the Copper Canyon. The train whistles to a stop at Divisadero. (the ONLY stop) the conductor anounces in Spanish that we will 'stop' for fifteen minutes to view the canyon. you step down off the train to the smell of wood smoke and diesel engines. your eyes burn you are overpowered by the noise and energy as everyone hurries to shop and take a quick photo before boarding to go back on their journey. several people wear name tags as part of their tour. families from around the world move as one pack through the crowd. it's surreal. the station - train station, has long since been abandoned. it sits empty at the edge of the vendor stalls, door open but no one home. the vendor stalls line both sides of the staircase walkway to the edge of the canyon. a shopping frenzy insues. groups line up at the rail in the practiced: 'one, two, three - cheese' ritual. (this sung in numerous languages) then the train whistles and hundreds of people run back up to clammer back onto the train. it chugs off and all is quiet. the locals count there money, cook more food and wait for the next, last train. each day there are two trains: premium and economica from both directions. 4 trains total pass through, stop for 15 minutes and are gone. the locals sit quietly and wait the tourists dollars. its the only revenue for most of these. the local indians are prominent because of the brightly colored clothes. (the females - i cant tell the men apart) the mexicans dress 'normal.' So, most people see about 5-6 minutes of the canyon. i decided to stay and walk it a little. THE HOTEL AT THE VIEW wanted $200US per night. so i went to 'Casa Roy' for $30US. i walked around dragging my bag asking everyone: 'habla english?' ("is there another hotel here?") i found Roy and he informed me he had 5 rooms he rents. it turned out to be a sort of mini-hotel. nice roomy, clean and priced to my budget. he offered one meal - dinner $6US. which we take as a family in his home. his wife cooks a simple and delicious meal. (i asked roy what will we have? "meat, i dont know. beef, chicken. meat.") there are two other guests staying at Casa Roy. Jill and Myrna. (Jill is from France and is talkative. Myrna is a dive instructor from Tulum. i never understood what Jill did for a living.) they were a cute couple and very pleasant. MY DAY CONSISTED OF WAKING AND WALKING. the 23rd. i woke early and set out by 7:30am taking photos and walking the 4km toward town. i found 3 more hotels along the way. none open yet. (they ease into the day in Mexico) finally i ventured out a dirt road to a maginficent hotel overlooking the Canyon. a lovely bright pink/orange colored monster hanging onto the cliff. this at 8:30am. i bought a coffee and a bottled water. sat on their balcony and took several photos. from this vantage point i could see the rim of the canyon trailing away and imagined (quite naiive) that i could follow it around to the train station and more photo ops. (i figure it's just around the next bend) so i take off about 9am to walk the canyon rim taking photos. im not sure when i 'got lost' or if you can really say i was lost. the barbed wire fence played into it somehow. the steep ravine and my short cut all led me into a longer adventure than i wanted. (lunch came and went with me still not out of the litteral woods.) it was about 3:30pm when i finally staggered into the train station. a great jolly walkabout. this during "unseasonably warm weather." so im dragging along a coat sweating like a pig. ("usually we have cold and maybe snow") it was 42 degrees when i set out and 80 when i melted in. Lots of great photos. day 2 and the sunrise photos... that never happend. at 4:30am Montezuma and i started our battle. i stayed curled up under covers trying to sleep or pretend i was going to be well enough to pack and catch the 1:30pm train. fortunately by only 11:30am i managed to feel human enough to shower and pack. the train ride i slept and ate a dinner of chicken in the dining car. (im first class remember) arrived at the Los Mochis station about 10pm. to my very great Joy there sat the van to the hotel. (Santa Anita $80US with internet) Christmas Day AND FELIZ NAVIDAD. now i must sign off and check out. im going to catch a bus or cab to Topolabampa where the ferry departs. the coastal seaport. it's $20US minutes by cab away. (~ten miles) im told the ferry wont be running today because it's Christmas. (i hope this is true) the seven hour ferry takes super human power to withstand. 4 movies dubbed into spanish with subtitles. that's how long the ride is. NO CLUE WHAT AWATES ME IN TOPOLABAMPA or when i will post again. (there was no internet on the mountain) but i wish you all a VERY HAPPY HOLIDAY! from hot mexico. xo XO SKIP

12.25 Copper Canyon, Divisadero MX

XMAS DAY. 12.25 Los Mochis, MX

Well i survived the mountains. the Copper Canyon was very imressive! i took the Premium train @ $72US with an assigned seat and 'non stop' travel. it was 4 train cars with large roomy seats (20 rows, 2 & 2) - 2 private bathrooms (one for each gender) in each car, plus a lounge car and a dining car. the travel was pretty tame. you have a shelf over your assigned seat, like a luggage rack with no door, where you put your belongings. so your limit was whatever YOU could drag on and lift. (i can give you the limit of both size and weight as my dive bag barely fit) there were traditional Porters/Conductors and a noticeable security gaurd. everyone was friendly, courteous and helpful. i felt safe the entire trip. (my only complaint was a mild case of Montezumas revenge. this battle started yesterday 4:30am in Divisedero and the struggle rages on.) i ate dinner on the train last night and am now in the Santa Anita Hotel downtown Los Mochis. my plan is to catch a ride to Topolabampa where the ferry departs and get back across the Sea of Cortez to La Paz. these are the photos of the Train. i have several of the Canyon but it seems the system thinks im a spammer (imagine that) probably becuase of my photos and is stopping my ability to upload.

Having a very merry christmas. feeling better and stronger. (have eaten only one meal each of the last three days.)

FELIZE NAVIDAD. xoXO skip